For moccasins and the leggings which both Indians and trappers wore, usually to the hip, the best material was last year’s tipi. New lodges were made annually – with much ceremony, by squaws who had ritualistic training and collected fees – and the skins of the old ones were saved for clothing. They had had a year’s smoking from the daily fire and so dried smooth and without stretching. The squaws kept a stock of rolled skins of all kinds which had been tanned when taken. (Winter was the best time for tanning since cold and lack of sunlight would lengthen the process.)